The nice marking folks at Eat ‘n Park have offered to ship a
free box of Smiley Cookies to one of my U.S. readers as a giveaway—my first one! It’s a good, free way to sample Smileys for
your own wedding or—if you’re like me—a good excuse for eating too many iced
cookies. To win, you’ll need to visit
Smiley’s website, http://www.smileycookie.com/, browse the Smiley cookie
categories and post a comment on ThePittsburghCookieTable about your favorite
shape of Smiley Cookie. For instance, if
your favorite Smiley is the Steeler Smiley, just post something along the lines
of: I really like the Steeler Smiley.
That’s it. If your comment number
is my lucky number, you’ll win the cookies.
For example, if my lucky number is 6 and yours is the sixth comment, you
win. Ok, let’s see who will win a free box
of Smileys. Good luck!
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
Sunday, September 30, 2012
Smiles on Your Wedding Day
I remember my first Eat ‘n Park Smiley Cookie. I was about six-years-old and my family—mom,
dad, and younger sister---had just moved from Pittsburgh thirty minutes north to
Cranberry Township. Farm country, we considered it back then. After a day spent lifting and unpacking boxes,
Mom announced that if we wanted to eat, we’d have to go out. We settled on an Eat ‘n Park, one of the five
options in our new town. At the end of
our meal, while my parents sipped the final third of their decaf coffees, the
waitress appeared with our bill and two wax paper envelops.
“Cookies for your two little girls,” she said, setting them
side by side on the table.
“Oh,” said Dad, furrowing his brows. “But we didn't order
any cookies.”
“They’re free for children under six,” she replied.
My sister and I grinned at each other and slid our cookies
out of their wrappings. They were round
cookies with a white glaze and piped with a smiley face. Mine was orange; Jackie’s pink.
“It’s huge,” I said, comparing it to my hand. “I don’t think I’ll eat it all.”
I took one bite, then another. The sugar cookie was firm, but the icing made
it softer. It tasted buttery, like my
grandmother’s cut-outs. My sister and I
chewed on the cookies even as we left the restaurant. By the time we reached
home, they were gone.
My hands have long since outgrown Smiley’s circumference and
I’m confident that today I’d be able to eat two cookies instead of one. But since high school, Smiley Cookies have
been absent from my dessert repertoire. I went to college in a town without an Eat ‘n
Park and after graduation I moved to Greece, where although there were no
Smiley Cookies, I did run into a Smiley Baklava once. Really.
Next came Grad School and before I knew it I was an adult, too old for
Smiley Cookies. Or so I thought.
This summer when I began writing The Pittsburgh Cookie Table,
I focused on favorite regional cookie recipes. When someone suggested that I
write about the Smiley Cookies as a possible cookie candidate, I was ashamed
that I hadn’t thought of it myself. With
its history and ties to Pittsburgh, of course Smiley Cookies should be part of
the Pittsburgh wedding tradition.
Joining Eat ‘n Park restaurants in 1986, Smiley has been a
Pittsburgh kids’ treat for over 25 years.
My generation remembers them as fixtures at birthdays, church socials,
and school holiday parties. I think most
Pittsburghers have a fond memory or two of the colorful smiles. If you’d like to learn more about Smiley, the Eat ‘n Park Hospitality group created a nice YouTube
video about the cookie’s history here.
It’s easy to add Smiley Cookies to your cookie table
tradition. At Smiley’s website, www.smileycookie.com brides can order
dozens of Smiley Cookies in just a few steps. With a choice of twelve colors for both the
smiley face and the base, the cookies can be customized to virtually any
wedding color combination. The order
ships to any address in the U.S. and you can request the date of their arrival.
My parents were lucky enough to receive a
box of the cookies in the mail last week.
Below are some pictures.
Just beautiful and yummy. My mother said they arrived at her door in a plastic air tight box and not a single cookie had broken. Good to know.
Just beautiful and yummy. My mother said they arrived at her door in a plastic air tight box and not a single cookie had broken. Good to know.
Over time, things change.
Cranberry Township is no longer countryside and my left hand now sports
an engagement ring. But the cheer Smiley
Cookies bring has stayed the same and I think they’d make an excellent addition
to any Pittsburgh cookie table.
Sunday, September 9, 2012
Where I've been
Part of me can’t believe it.
Has more than a month passed since my last post? Looking at the date of my last cookie recipe,
June 27, I see that numbers don’t lie. Well then. It’s time for someone to get back on a writing
schedule.
First it was the bridal shower my mother and sister threw
for me in the U.S. Wedding etiquette books warn brides not to become involved with
the shower, to prevent speculation that she’s campaigning for gifts. But as I say here, I wanted to make something
for the ladies in my life who gave up a summer Saturday to shower me with gifts
and wish me well as the future Mrs. P.
I made them these:
Apart from a report that one cupcake melted
in a hot car on its way home, I think they served as rather nice parting gifts.
Next was my big move to Greece. I must have packed and repacked my suitcases twenty
times, all to avoid overweight charges… they were overweight in the end. And then the dress. My sister, a costumer, sewed a special bag
for my wedding dress’ ride across the Atlantic.
Not a single wrinkle when I arrived.
To shorten a long tale, in four weeks I rejoined my Spyros,
landed a teaching position (yes, I found a job. In Greece
where unemployment has reached 24.4%), and am eating food like this:
And seeing sights like this:
And this:
I am truly thankful for how everything has turned out but
not all the roadblocks are gone. Things
are difficult here. Every day we learn
of another friend who has quit or is quitting Greece for the UK or US. I’m hoping for the best but feelings are not
positive here.
On a happier note, I did have a publication accepted here in
the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette about the creator of the Peanut Blossom Cookie,
Freda Smith. Thank you friends and
readers for your encouragement and support.
It means more than you know.
Now that I’m in
Greece cookie recipes will still be my focus, but because of my new location
and where I am in my life, this blog will alter some. You see, Spyros and I are preparing to move into a new
house. And until it is ready my oven
access will be limited but the trade-off is just fine; my in-laws-to-be have
graciously offered us their home along with copious amounts of free pasta and wine. Nonetheless, Greece has many foodie finds and
I will post about them all. I’m looking forward to the new direction this
blog is taking and hope you’ll join me as I rediscover Greece.
Friday, July 27, 2012
Wedding Colors
Colors,
the choice of them, have pirated my attention this summer. I’ve spent… more
hours than I care to admit, clicking through reception décor, wedding
invitations, cakes, and floral arrangements in pursuit of wedding color schemes.
At my lowest point I spent an entire
sunny, low-humidity Saturday—a rarity in Pittsburgh—at my desk, scanning slideshows
of escort cards. I’m pretty sure online browsing only hinders my making a decision. After a few photos, they all
become a blur and I’m no better off than when I started. Perhaps a multitude of options isn't always a good thing. Add to that the construction of
our new home and you’ve got a bride who’s tempted to devote entire weekends to looking for the perfect cabinet stain. But
I’m having a blast. At what other time
in her life does a girl get to focus on making things pretty? Not many, I’m afraid.
My obsession with color has found its way
into the cookie table project. Early this week I realized that the cookies
I’ve baked so far are the same color, a browned butter hue—cozy and appetizing but,
sadly, a bit monotonous. So this week I
experimented with a recipe that would add some splash to the typical cookie
table, strawberry bon bons.
Strawberry
bon bons are not sophisticated cookies, I won’t pretend otherwise. They will
win you no culinary accolades nor much esteem in foodie circles. No, these candy-like cookies belong in the
category of sweets reserved for a child’s birthday party or a girl’s baby-doll tea. But these deterrents do not make me love
them any less.
I became acquainted with strawberry bon bons
at a cousin’s wedding back in 1994. They
tasted tropical, of juicy strawberries, island coconut, and warm almond. Like a Strawberry Almond joy (which makes me
think that these cookies would be sinful dipped
in bitter dark chocolate). It was a
breakthrough for me, a child whose favorite treats were coconut muffins. I never did learn the recipe but remembered
their taste and, most important, their appearance; bright red with a slight
sparkle, like Dorothy’s ruby slippers.
They dominated the cookie table.
I
do hope you’ll give strawberry bon bons a try at your next party or as a snack. They are easy to make and both kids and
adults love them. They solve the color
conundrum, adding a pop of brightness to any cookie display. Happy Friday, everyone!
Strawberry
Bon Bons
INGREDIENTS:
v 1 8 oz. can sweetened
condensed milk
v 1 10 oz. bag flaked
coconut
v 1 6 oz. box strawberry
gelatin
v 1 cup blanched almonds,
ground
v 2 teaspoons almond
extract
v red food coloring
v 1 tube prepared green
frosting
1 In a large bowl, combine sweetened condensed milk, coconut, 1/3 cup strawberry
gelatin, ground almonds, almond extract and enough red food coloring to tint
the mixture a strawberry shade. Stir with a wooden spoon until well-combined.
2
Chill in the refrigerator until firm enough to handle, about one hour.
3
Pour the remaining strawberry gelatin into a wide shallow dish, a pie pan or
square glass dish should be just fine. With your hands, form small amounts of
the mixture (about ½ tablespoon) into a strawberry shape. Roll the strawberry in the remaining gelatin
to coat. Pipe a stem with the green
icing and place the finished strawberry on a cookie sheet. Keep refrigerated until serving.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Classy Cookie Displays--From The Mansion at Maple Heights
When I was growing up in the early 1990s, cookie tables were all about, well, the cookies. Nothing was more pleasing to an
eight-year-old than a card table clothed in white crepe paper heaped with iced,
sugared, and chocolate speckled treats.
But times have changed and so have weddings. Gone—or at least decreased—are
receptions jammed with five-hundred guests at the local fire hall. Weddings
today tend to be classier affairs with pared down guest lists—often without
children—for greater intimacy and quality.
In Pittsburgh, the cookie table has experienced a transformation, too. It’s no longer enough to present Tupperware boxes
full of cookies in the corner of the reception hall. Families and wedding venues now devote attention to cookie presentation, too.
Early this summer, I asked several Pittsburgh-area
wedding vendors if they would consider sharing photos of their cookie table
displays on my blog. One of the earliest
responders was Nicole Pope, event coordinator at The Mansion at Maple Heights
in Shadyside. Nicole graciously sent
gorgeous shots of some of the Mansion’s past cookie displays crafted by its exclusive caterers, Big
Catering. The Mansion at Maple Heights is
a lovely venue for a Pittsburgh wedding. Its oak floors and paneling, stained glass
windows, and grand staircase evoke the Victorian charm that often characterizes historic
homes in Pittsburgh. The Mansion’s cookie
tables are something special too and offer inspiration for anyone organizing their
own cookie display or dessert bar.
Love this display. Colorful icings offer a fun contrast to the white, square trays. I’m also crazy about the different shapes and
textures.
Mmm, smores. A
wonderful idea for a fall or summer wedding.
Navy blue, any shade of blue really, is a great background for
food displays since it has a calming effect on the eyes and appetite. In this case, the dark navy contrasts nicely
with the paler-hued cookies while making bright pink cut-outs pop.
A tray of traditionals.
I detect lady locks, cream wafers, pizelles, kolacki, and Russian
teacakes. Does anyone know the name of
the bar cookie?
I hope these photos gave you some ideas. More to come soon.
Monday, July 16, 2012
Nut Horns, or How I Overcame My Fear of Shaped Cookies
Nut horns, crescent-shaped and
stuffed with a wholesome cinnamon-walnut filling, these buttery pastries are a
hot item on Pittsburgh cookie tables. Known
as roszke, kiflik, roski and roscici, nut horns are of Eastern European origin
with the Czechs, Poles, Hungarians, and Croatians all claiming the cookie as
their own. In my Slovak family we just
call them nut horns and, like an aunt or uncle who lives out-of-town, look
forward to seeing them at Christmas and weddings.
I’ve wanted to make nut horns for a while now.
My great-aunt Ann’s nut horn recipe was one I had hoped to master before I left
Pittsburgh, to make certain I understood how the dough looked and felt before I
needed to find a sour cream substitute in Greece.
But I’ve hesitated all summer.
You see, before I began this
project, I was convinced that nut horns were for advanced bakers only. The pastry, with its perfect balance of
tender crumb to buttery density was, I thought, impossible to produce without ample
trial and error and the advice of a polish-speaking grandmother. The filling, too, seemed to require the
knowledge of a quasi-professional. Too
much would result in burst nut horns, while too little would yield a cookie the
flavor of Elmer’s glue paste. I wasn’t
sure my novice skills would suffice. But
on Thursday evening I told my inner critic to, please, go away. In a year’s
time I would be a wife. I needed to
overcome some of my fears, like, killing spiders, unclogging a toilet, and—in
this case—baking fancy desserts.
So I got to work. The pastry dough was simple. I measured just four ingredients, clicked the
mixer to low then medium and two minutes later, had a smooth, firm dough the
size and weight of an infant. Assembly
was not impossible, either. If you can
shape Pillsbury crescent rolls on Thanksgiving, you can assemble nut horns. The
only real challenge is the time it takes to fill and bake four dozen. I began at 7:30 and pulled the last batch
from the oven around 10:45. I was sleepy
but proud of the shiny, moon-shaped cookies crowding my counter.
Were they worth the effort?
Oh yes. They tasted like gourmet Pop Tarts, the kind
with the brown sugar and cinnamon filling.
I felt marginally better about eating them, too, knowing that they were
preservative-free and made entirely by me.
The next day, my sister and I organized
a garage sell as a way to get rid of some of my stuff before my move to Greece. We offered passers-by a nut horn or two. One woman, a local nurse in scrubs on her
lunch break, looked at me, wide-eyed and said, “Nut horns? Oh my gosh, I love nut horns.” Another woman said, “No. I can’t.
If I have one I won’t be able to stop.” A man asked if he could buy a
few for his wife. By the end of the
afternoon, half of my four dozen were gone.
Nut horns certainly don’t last long in this town.
Nut Horns
Adapted by Lauren Wadowsky
INGREDIENTS
Pastry
v 4 cups all-purpose flour
v 1 cup unsalted butter, slightly cold
v 1 cup sour cream
v 4 egg yolks (whites reserved)
v 1 teaspoon salt
Cinnamon-Walnut Filling
v 1 lb walnuts, ground
v 1 ¼ cups sugar
v 4 egg whites, unbeaten
v 1 ½ teaspoon cinnamon
v juice of one lemon
Egg wash
v
2 egg whites
v
3 tablespoon sugar, divided
METHOD
1 In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt with
a wire whisk. Work in the butter using a pastry blender, two knives, or a mixer
fitted with a paddle attachment until the mixture resembles small crumbs.
2
In a smaller bowl, beat the egg yolks into the sour cream. Stir it into the flour/butter mixture until a
smooth, firm dough forms.
3 Tear off walnut-sized pieces of dough and roll into
balls. Place in the refrigerator to
harden for two hours or overnight.
4 For
the filling, combine the ground walnuts with the sugar, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon,
and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Add the
four reserved egg whites and stir until well-combined. Set aside.
5
Preheat oven to 350o F. To
assemble the nut horns, sprinkle a little powdered sugar on a dough-ball and roll
into a flat, thin circle.
6 Drop a
scant teaspoon of filling in the center of the circle.
7 Fold
one side of the pastry over the filling to cover it, then fold over the
remaining side. Seal all seams well, and
gently bend into the shape of a crescent.
8 Place
nut horns on a greased cookie sheet. Be
sure not to skip this step, otherwise the cookies will adhere to the pan. Brush the nut horns with an egg wash made by
whisking together the two egg whites and one tablespoon of the sugar. Sprinkle the tops of the horns with sugar for
a little sparkle.
9 Bake
for 15-20 minutes until the cookies are light brown. Cool on wire racks.
Saturday, July 7, 2012
What do in Lemon Blueberry Cupcakes and Independence Day Have in Common?
I spent my Fourth of July baking these.
While they baked, I parked myself
on the couch and watched five hours of History Channel’s documentary, The Revolution.
I get giddy about historical
programing. The dramatic music, powdered
wigs, and George Washington impersonators compel me to watch for longer than I really should. The sad thing is I would gladly spend another
afternoon in the same way, only next time I’d make sure to watch all thirteen
hours. That’s right, thirteen hours of Benedict
Arnold, Valley Forge, and The Star
Spangled Banner. I’d relish all 780
minutes of it, just as my family and I relished these cupcakes.
I’ve gone a little off course this week,
tinkering not with a cookie but instead a recipe for cupcakes, one which I’d
like to bake for my bridal shower next month.
I know I’m not supposed to interfere with the details of my own shower,
that I should leave it to my mother and sister since guests might construe it
as me petitioning for gifts. But I can’t
help myself. I want to be
involved. I want to put my care into
something for the ladies in my life who will lose precious time from a weekend
next month, all to celebrate with me.
So I did a trial run of these Lemon
Blueberry Cupcakes with Blueberry Cream Cheese Frosting for my parents and sister on the Fourth. It’s
my adaptation of a recipe from the Food Network’s Cupcake Wars.
The cake recipe is phenomenal,
kudos to Lori Jacobs, the original creator.
It is dense with just the right sweet to tart ratio. My cream cheese frosting, admittedly, needs a
little work. While the blueberry and
almond are a dynamic flavor combination, the mixture becomes soft if kept out
of the refrigerator for long. But that
didn’t matter to my family and me on Wednesday.
We all reached for a second cupcake.
My father took the remaining dozen to the office the next day and as was, by his account, “…a very popular man at work.”
Still, it’s back to the inspiration
board for me until I find a recipe for a blueberry buttercream frosting that can withstand
at least room temperature. I only hope The Revolution will be on T.V. as I’m going through my test-runs,
too.
Lemon Blueberry Cupcakes
Adapted by Lauren Wadowsky
INGREDIENTS
Cupcakes
v 3 ½ cups all-purpose flour
v 1 teaspoon baking soda
v ½ teaspoon kosher salt
v 1 ¾ sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
v 1 ½ cup sugar
v 3 jumbo eggs (or 3 extra large eggs)
v 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
v zest of two lemons
v 2 cups sour cream
v 1 ½ cups blueberries, washed and stems removed
Blueberry Cream Cheese
Frosting
v 1 stick unsalted butter, softened
v 8 oz. cream cheese
v 1 teaspoon almond extract
v pinch of salt
v 3/4 cup blueberries
METHOD
1 Preheat oven to 350oF. Line
regular-sized cupcake pans with paper liners.
2 In a medium bowl combine all the dry ingredients except the sugar:
flour, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.
3 In a large mixing bowl cream the butter and sugar until light and
fluffy with the paddle attachment of a standing mixer. I recommend using
a stand-up mixer because the recipe eventually yields a lot of batter, too much
to stir with hand held beaters.
4 Add the eggs one by one, stirring well. Stir in the vanilla
and lemon zest.
5 In three additions each, alternate the flour mixture with the sour
cream, beginning with the flour mixture and ending with the sour cream.
Mix in the blueberries.
6 With an ice cream scoop, fill the prepared
cupcake pans 2/3 full with batter. Bake 16-20 minutes, until a test comes
out clean and the tops of the muffins are lightly golden.
Meanwhile, begin making the blueberry syrup for the frosting.
Blueberry Cream Cheese
Frosting:
1 In a small saucepan over medium high heat, combine fresh
blueberries, teaspoon lemon juice, and sugar. Cook the mixture until the
blueberries pop and there is ample liquid in the pan. About 6-10
minutes. Cool completely.
2 In a large mixing bowl, combine the butter and cream cheese until
light and fluffy. Stir in the almond extract, salt and 6 tablespoons of
the blueberry syrup. Add the powdered sugar one cup at a time.
3 Pipe over cooled cupcakes. Store in
the refrigerator.
Monday, July 2, 2012
Lemon Drop Cookies: Could Sweet and Tangy Be the New Sweet and Salty?
While I love the current trend for sweet and salty flavor
combinations (it really doesn’t get much better, or weirder than chocolate-chip
bacon cookies) I discovered another worthy flavor duo this week that is well
suited to the hot and humid weather currently parked over the northeast; sweet
and tangy, married together in this recipe for Lemon Drop Cookies.
It’s a simple recipe for an unfussy cookie, the kind you’d
stick in your child’s lunchbox as a toothsome afternoon treat. I came across
this recipe, written on a small notecard, in my grandma Helen’s recipe box
while visiting her home in North Pittsburgh last week. “That’s a good one,” she
told me, nodding. “The dough calls for
sour cream and it makes a rich, sweet cookie. Yum.”
Lemon is Grandma’s favorite flavor so I consider her the
expert on citrus baking. It’s a unique cookie, and I knew I had to share it
with you.
The recipe creates a soft, airy dough the consistency of mousse. You will fear you’ve not added enough flour
but don’t despair. And don’t, out of anxiety,
place the bowl in the refrigerator for an hour.
It should be sticky and batter-like.
Remain confident. Drop rounded teaspoons
of the fluffy substance on greased cookie sheets and bake. When you open the oven door, you will be met
with rows of rounded, cake-like cookies and a waft of lemon-scented hot air.
The icing is what really makes this cookie, so be sure to include
it. After it dries, it becomes absorbed
by the cookie, making it sweeter and softer still. Lemon Drops are a refreshing summer
afternoon snack, eaten on the back porch with a glass of iced tea. It’s not one of the traditional Pittsburgh
wedding cookies, but I think it would make an adorable addition to a summer wedding. I’ve been eating
these things for days and lunchtime has just arrived. I know what my dessert will be.
Helen’s
Lemon Drop Cookies
INGREDIENTS
Cookie
v ½ cup butter
v 1 cup sugar
v 1 cup (8 oz.) regular
sour cream
v 1/3 cup fresh lemon
juice
v 2 ¼ cups all-purpose
flour
v 1 teaspoon baking soda
v ½ teaspoon salt
v ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
Icing
v 1 ½ cup powdered sugar
v 2 tablespoons water
v 2 teaspoons fresh lemon
juice
v ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
METHOD
1 Preheat oven to 350oF
2 In a large mixing bowl,
combine the butter and sugar at the medium speed of an electric mixer until light
and fluffy. Blend in the sour cream and
lemon juice, scrapping the bowl often.
3 Mix in the flour, baking
soda, salt, and nutmeg until well combined.
The dough with be light and airy, like a heavy mousse.
4 Drop rounded teaspoonfuls
two inches apart on a greased cookie sheet.
Bake for 14-15 minutes until edges are brown. Place on wire cooling racks and cool completely.
5 Prepare the icing. In a small bowl add the powered sugar, water,
lemon juice and nutmeg. Combine with a
whisk or a fork.
6 Spread icing on cooled
cookies with a butter knife. Allow icing
to dry, about 1 hour, and store in airtight containers.
Sunday, July 1, 2012
Tuesday, June 26, 2012
What is a Cookie Table?
My friend Marie asked a good
question the other day: what exactly is the Pittsburgh cookie table
tradition? I realized then that I hadn’t yet addressed this fundamental
question on my blog. How silly!
The cookie table is a popular
wedding tradition in northwestern Pennsylvania. It is usually a table (or
two, or three, or four) covered with trays of cookies for guests to snack on
throughout the party. The veritable cookie buffet is, of course, in
addition to a proper wedding cake which many guests do not even eat, wrapping
their slices instead in paper napkins to take home for breakfast the next
morning.
Some cookie table displays
are extravagant. A wedding vendor I interviewed told me of a
mother-of-the-bride who, on the morning of the wedding, delivered 10,000
cookies for the venue staff to arrange and plate just six hours before the
reception. Now the vendor charges a set-up fee for larger-than-usual
quantities.
The vast quantities of
cookies are produced by obliging aunts, grandmothers, cousins, and sisters of
the bride who begin their work months before the wedding, freezing their
creations until the big day. Sometimes they designate a few weekends and
do their baking together. It’s a good excuse to spend time with one
another, chat, and relax before the wedding.
No one is sure where the
cookie table tradition began but it seems to be practiced in cities with large
enclaves of Italian and Eastern-European immigrants. Perhaps it was a custom
the newcomers brought with them from their home countries. Another theory
suggests that the cookie table grew out of the Depression. When families
couldn’t afford a wedding cake, guests chipped in by bringing batches of cookies,
as a way to round out and make an otherwise sparse celebration, special.
For many, the cookie table is
the best part of a wedding celebration. Guests enjoy seeing what cookies
the bride’s family has baked as they usually reflect her origins and tastes.
Every guest secretly, or not so secretly, compares the lady locks to their
grandmother’s recipe. They are never quite as good. In Pittsburgh
the cookie table is an event in itself. It’s a unique quirk which, as
Pittsburghers marry outside the region, other cities are adopting adopt.
And it’s about time. Who doesn’t appreciate a good cookie?
That’s right, no one.
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Cherry Coconut Shortbread Bars
A recipe slipped out of my
late grandmother’s Betty
Crocker’s Picture Cookbook as
I paged though it last week. Hand-written on lined notebook paper, it was
a recipe for cherry bars. The letters were clear and slanted; the paper
was crisp, as though grandma had written it a week ago.
My apartment smelled like a bakery after I put a pan of them in the oven. For the rest of the afternoon, I was happy indoors.
Was it Grandma Eleanor’s
handwriting? I wondered. It was
possible. I read the instructions and imagined her voice—cheerful, but raspy
from cigarettes—guiding me though the instructions.
Sift flour, sugar. Cut
in Oleo. And press into an 11” x17” pan.
Grandma Eleanor was my
father’s mother. Her hair was bobbed and white and she wore oversized
gray glasses. I was convinced that she was Mrs. Claus and, come December,
was extra cautious in her presence. She died when I was seven,
before I really knew her, but some of my fondest memories include baking cut-out
cookies in her kitchen.
The cherry bar recipe
was like a conversation she and I never had. Grandma dictated the instructions,
and I visualized myself following them. The handwriting mesmerized me, I
could have looked at it for hours. A handwritten recipe is different from
letters on a computer screen or a cookbook’s printed text; it’s personal and
undeniably the words of another human. A cook communicates her
personality in the way she loops her Ls and ends her words with an upward
swoop. A happy, organized woman penned this recipe, of that I was
certain. I added cherry bars to the top of my must-try list, for purely
sentimental reasons.
It was a strange
recipe. Grandma listed baking powder, flour, and flaked coconut as
ingredients for the cherry filling. The shortbread crust called for powdered
sugar. I shrugged at the ingredients and gathered them anyway, Grandma
was the expert. I followed the recipe exactly. Well almost. The sugar I
reduced by half, the maraschino cherries I replaced with Trader Joe’s Dark
Morello Cherries in Light Syrup. Instead of Oleo, I used my favorite
baking fat, unsalted butter.
My apartment smelled like a bakery after I put a pan of them in the oven. For the rest of the afternoon, I was happy indoors.
The next day my mother
dropped by and I cut her a piece.“Mmmm. It
tastes like a moist cherry shortbread,” she said, picking it up with her hands.
“I want another piece.”
I handed her the recipe and asked if the writing was Grandma’s. Mom
glanced at it.
“No, Honey, I’m sorry,”
she said. “That’s not her writing at all.”
Sometimes I’m too romantic
for my own good.
Still, it is a wonderful
recipe, perfect for breakfast or a late afternoon snack. The crust is a powdery
pastry, the kind that clings to the sides of your mouth and begs for a glass of
milk. Laden with toasted almonds and held together with chewy coconut, it
is a most satisfying treat.
Cherry Coconut Shortbread Bars
2 cups flour
½ cup powdered sugar
1 cup butter, unsalted
Preheat the oven to 350oF.
In a large mixing bowl, stir together the flour and sugar. With a pastry
cutter, paddle attachment of a standing mixer, or two knives cut in the butter
until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Press the mixture into an
11”x17” pan and bake for 10 minutes. Be careful not to overbake the
crust. It should be underdone at this point, to allow for more baking
later.
Filling:
½ cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
4 eggs
1 cup chopped cherries in
light syrup
1 cup flaked coconut
¾ cup chopped, toasted almonds
Combine the dry ingredients
in a medium mixing bowl and beat in the eggs. Fold in the cherries,
coconut and nuts. Spread over the half-baked dough and bake for 30-40
minutes at 350oF. Serve plain or topped with sweetened whipped
cream.
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