My friend Marie asked a good
question the other day: what exactly is the Pittsburgh cookie table
tradition? I realized then that I hadn’t yet addressed this fundamental
question on my blog. How silly!
The cookie table is a popular
wedding tradition in northwestern Pennsylvania. It is usually a table (or
two, or three, or four) covered with trays of cookies for guests to snack on
throughout the party. The veritable cookie buffet is, of course, in
addition to a proper wedding cake which many guests do not even eat, wrapping
their slices instead in paper napkins to take home for breakfast the next
morning.
Some cookie table displays
are extravagant. A wedding vendor I interviewed told me of a
mother-of-the-bride who, on the morning of the wedding, delivered 10,000
cookies for the venue staff to arrange and plate just six hours before the
reception. Now the vendor charges a set-up fee for larger-than-usual
quantities.
The vast quantities of
cookies are produced by obliging aunts, grandmothers, cousins, and sisters of
the bride who begin their work months before the wedding, freezing their
creations until the big day. Sometimes they designate a few weekends and
do their baking together. It’s a good excuse to spend time with one
another, chat, and relax before the wedding.
No one is sure where the
cookie table tradition began but it seems to be practiced in cities with large
enclaves of Italian and Eastern-European immigrants. Perhaps it was a custom
the newcomers brought with them from their home countries. Another theory
suggests that the cookie table grew out of the Depression. When families
couldn’t afford a wedding cake, guests chipped in by bringing batches of cookies,
as a way to round out and make an otherwise sparse celebration, special.
For many, the cookie table is
the best part of a wedding celebration. Guests enjoy seeing what cookies
the bride’s family has baked as they usually reflect her origins and tastes.
Every guest secretly, or not so secretly, compares the lady locks to their
grandmother’s recipe. They are never quite as good. In Pittsburgh
the cookie table is an event in itself. It’s a unique quirk which, as
Pittsburghers marry outside the region, other cities are adopting adopt.
And it’s about time. Who doesn’t appreciate a good cookie?
That’s right, no one.
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